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Kevin Fischer is an award-winning veteran broadcaster who has been seen and heard on Milwaukee TV and radio stations for nearly three decades.
Kevin, who is a legislative aide to state Sen. Mary Lazich (R-New Berlin), can be seen offering his views on the news on the public affairs program, “INTERchange,” on Milwaukee Public Television Channel 10. He lives with his wife, Jennifer, in Franklin.

Another word about Culinary no-no #75

By Kevin Fischer
Sunday, Sep 14 2008, 09:35 PM


Last week’s Culinary no-no #75 may have been a slice of sacrilege. My designated no-no was what some experts believe is the best pizza place that also serves the best pizza in America, Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix.

Bon Appétit Magazine claims it’s the best.

Forbes raves about it. So does Ed Levine, author of “Pizza: A Slice of Heaven.”

The James Beard Foundation named owner Chris Bianco, described by one reviewer as a “skilled, pizza-obsessed human being,” the Best Chef in the Southwest in 2003. Bianco’s establishment is the only pizzeria to receive an award from the famed Beard.

I’ve never eaten at Pizzeria Bianco. As I wrote last week, some of those pies look pretty good. And I don’t question the passion Bianco is noted having for making each and every pie himself.

But I stand by my no-no. Standing in line for three hours outside in an outdoor pizza oven for a pie topped with arugula?

No-no way.

Comments

Robert R   

I find it mildly amusing that you judge the worth of a restaurant solely based on one menu item among eleven items.

As a chef who has worked at many of the nations best restaurants I can say a good crust, arugula,parmigiano reggiano and ricotta compliment each other very well. Naturally it's not to everyones taste. Like lemon in tea it's all subjective and not right or wrong.

The discussion of pizza never fails to raise strong opinions. But I have found as in anything in life if I cast aside preconceived notions and approach food with a open mind it is one of life's great pleasures.

I can ensure you that any business owner who has as much passion for his craft as Chris Bianco will rarely disappoint.

September 22, 2008 11:50 AM

Kevin Fischer   

Robert R., thank you for reading and commenting!

After I wrote Culinary no-no #75, I felt the need for a clarifying follow-up. I repeat, there's no doubt Chris Bianco, as I noted, has great passion and his restaurant is wildly popular. And some of those creations looked amazing.

The premise of my blog (the no-no) was the fact I was struck by the people who waited three hours in line in the Phoenix heat or the meatless variety.

I wouldn't wait three hours for a Bartolotta table here in Milwaukee. And I love all of his places.

My wife wants me to take her to Arizona in the worst way. iI we go, and we're near Bianco's place, I'd be tempted to try if the line isn't into the next zip code.

I do appreciate your comment, Robert!

You're right. Food is a wonderful pleasure!

September 22, 2008 12:32 PM

Robert R   

I certainly hope you and your wife will give it a try. Go early and have some wine and cheese next door at the wine bar. I realize it's hard to believe but the people you meet while waiting is part of the experience. If it is true that great food brings people together than Chris Bianco has mastered it. In these hectic times it is a true joy to slow down and see people in a joyous mood having conversations with complete strangers about past visits and great food.

I have been from the French Laundry to Babbo and Pizzeria Bianco so far is my most memorable restaurant visit. Which is pretty high praise.

Enjoy

Robert Rymarz

September 22, 2008 1:04 PM

Kevin Fischer   

Robert, again, thank you. I hope you will read some of my other Culinary no-no entries and see how this blog feature evolved. Please click CULINARY NO-NO under my TAGS section.

If you can, please e-mail me privately. My wife and I would love to hear and correspond with you about French Laundry and others.

September 22, 2008 1:31 PM

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